Monday, June 11, 2012

M N L O K P J...

I rarely bring anything to read with me when I know I will be sitting for a long time. I like my time alone, even if it's at a crowded venue.

I do this in airports, trains and jury duty.

Once I got bored and decided to learn the alphabet backwards. A few years later my wife told me I couldn't do the alphabet from the inside out. It took me an hour (without pen or paper) that she undoubtedly regretted. My nieces and nephews are impressed. You're probably not. Not yet, at least.

In honor of my brilliance, we will be looking at the mouldings from Bill Anderson's Corner Cabinet from the inside out. Starting with the waist and support: the point where the upper case sits upon the lower.

Basic Dimensions:

Radii (note the ellipses)

The first rabbets/joint. You will need a specialized sticking board for the support moulding on the left. A properly dimensioned stick to fill the void will work.)

Rabbets at all of the transition points from hollow to round, fillet to hollow, etc. 

The orange rabbet below shall be cut during the previous step, but it's not a transition point so it didn't fit in the description. This orange rabbet removes more material with the plane that's easiest to maintain (rabbet) and gives clearance for the side round's profile in red. 

This rabbet is the transition point between the two sized rounds to create the ellipse. Again, it shall be cut the the rabbets above. 

Still during that first step, add a rabbet for each round to be used. The rabbets for the support moulding have already been made.

Chamfer for each hollow. 

Knock off corners. When making an ellipse I usually start with the larger of the two planes... Since I'm looking to talk about this in terms of my standard quarter set, we will be using a #10 round to mimic the shape of a 12 and a block plane or something similar as a substitute for the hollow. Try it, you'll be happy with the results.

And then move to the smaller. #6 hollow and #8 round

Knock off corners up top with a #4 hollow

And more corners. Use a #10 here. When making a cove that abuts a bead, as we have below, a side round will create clearance, but not enough for the perfectly sized round. I'd probably use a 10 round here even it I didn't have a 12 (a 13 cuts a radius of 7/8, not 13/16, but I digress.)

And the last corners. Use a #4 hollow to mimic a #3, you'll get it.


Bill executes his mouldings a little different. He starts his rounds upon a chamfer and uses a plow to groove clearance for the side round and subsequent rounds.

His starting point for hollows/rounds looks quite different than where I start. 

The results, of course, are the same. 

Except that his was done in wood.

So why did I start in the middle? because it's the one I wanted to do first.

1 comment:

  1. ttaM,

    On the molding that you show with two ellipses. When I drew this out in sketchup for top I saw this as R9/16" where you show this as R3/8 and R13/16, and the lower as R5/8 where you show this as R3/4 and R1/2.

    Quite good practice....At least while waiting for your book!

    I still do not quite understand on how to decide where to place the rabbets for the rounds. I think I need to practice a bit using the rounds.